Many makers invest seriously in components but cut corners on the tools they use to assemble them. Understandable — until a solder pad lifts, a component gets damaged, or a joint fails even though everything looks fine. That is when cheap becomes expensive.
Good soldering tools do not have to be expensive. But you need to know what you need and why.
Solder: the material where it all begins
Solder is not a tool, but without the right solder, no tool will work properly. Its composition determines the melting behavior, adhesion, and how the joint looks after cooling.
For most makers, 60/40 lead alloy (Sn 60% / Pb 40%) is the most practical choice. Its melting point is around 183°C, it flows smoothly, and it gives a shiny, highly readable joint. For fine work on SMD components, choose a 0,6 mm diameter — this gives more control over the amount you apply. For through-hole components (THT) or larger connections, 1,0 mm works more comfortably.
Do you sell products or repair devices for third parties? Then RoHS directives apply and you will need lead-free solder (SAC305). For hobby use at home, there are no restrictions.
Lead-free solder has a higher melting point (around 217°C) and flows less easily. It is less forgiving for beginners. Start with 60/40 and switch when the situation demands it.
Desoldering wick: indispensable, even if you think you rarely need it
Too much solder on a pad, a bridge between two traces, a component that ended up in the wrong place after all — it happens to every maker. Desoldering wick (also called desoldeerlint or desolder braid) is braided copper wire that absorbs excess solder as soon as you heat it with the soldering tip.
Which width do you choose?
| Width | Application |
|---|---|
| 1,0 mm | Small SMD pads, minimal risk of damage |
| 1,5 mm | Versatile, suitable for SMD and smaller THT connections |
| 2,5 mm | Larger pads, connectors, and heavy-duty joints |
Three practical tips for using desoldering wick:
- Always add extra flux. The flux inside the wick is often not enough. Extra external flux makes the solder flow into the braid much faster, preventing you from heating the pad for too long.
- Heat the wick, not the pad. Place the wick on the joint and press the soldering tip onto the wick. The heat passes through the copper, melts the solder, and draws it up by capillary action.
- Cut off used pieces immediately. Saturated copper no longer absorbs solder. Cut off the used, silver part before making the next connection.
The desoldering pump: faster for heavy joints
For through-hole components with large amounts of solder, a desoldering pump is often faster. You heat the joint, position the nozzle, and suck up the liquid solder. Use the pump and wick together: the pump removes the bulk, and the wick cleans up the remaining residue.
Small habits that make a big difference
- Clean the soldering tip regularly. Do not use a wet sponge (which causes thermal shock and speeds up wear), but use brass wool or a metallic tip cleaner.
- Always tin the tip after use. Before putting the iron back in its stand, apply a small layer of fresh solder to the tip. This protects the metal from oxidation while cooling down.
- Work at the right temperature. For 60/40 solder, 320°C to 340°C is usually ideal. For lead-free solder, increase this to 360°C to 380°C. Too much heat destroys the flux before it can do its job and can lift solder pads from your PCB.